FOOD FOR THOUGHT
As readers know from my books, I truly believe that food nourishes our spirits as well as our bodies, and it’s why I take great joy in preparing a meal. Cooking for me is therapy, deep satisfaction and adventure. I hope you’ll explore this section, filled with memories as well as measurements, and discover some dishes that can become your family favorites as they are mine and Giulia’s, Rose’s and Mae’s.
RECIPE FROM DANCING ON SUNDAY AFTERNOONS
Giulia cooked in the same way that she used her healing powers–with intensity, with passion and with generosity. Whether she was rolling out pasta dough to a paper-thin layer that would lift if you blew under it or preparing hearty meals of sausage and peppers for the working men who frequented the Palace of Dreams, cooking was was her art, her refuge and her survival.
ARROSTO DI MAIALE (ROAST PORK)
In a chapter that was later cut from Dancing on Sunday Afternoons, Giulia prepares a feast for the christening of Caterina, her first-born child.
“We had closed the Palace that Sunday. Paolo and I were ready to celebrate, exhilarated by the joy of Caterina’s birth and finally released from the agony of uncertainty that had haunted the final months of my pregnancy. It was also an opportunity to welcome Papa and the boys to America and to show off to Papa the gleam and polish of the Palace’s success. I cooked for days ahead. I had prepared manicotti, a cacciatore with rabbit, and sausage and peppers. I made eggplant parmegiano and arrosto di maiale. Tilly had helped me bake a sweet ricotta pie with orange peel, a torta di nocciole, and two trays of anise cookies. The morning of the christening, I heaped an antipasto platter with prosciutto, mortadella, salami, and soprasatta, roasted peppers, anchovies, olives, my pickled eggplant, provolone, and mozzarella.”
Boneless pork tenderloin (1.5-2 lbs)
2 cloves garlic, cut into slivers
1 teaspoon dried rosemary or fresh rosemary leaves stripped from 6 stems
2-3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste
Make slits in the pork and insert a sliver of garlic, some rosemary, salt and pepper.
Place roast in a shallow pan and drizzle with olive oil.
Roast in 400° oven for about 25 minutes or until the internal temperature reaches 145° on a meat thermometer. Rest the meat for five minutes before slicing.
I usually serve this with apple sauce or sautéd apples.
RECIPE FROM ACROSS THE TABLE
The Dante family’s restaurant in Boston’s North End is called “Paradiso,” after the third volume of Dante Alighieri’s Divine Comedy. In Paradiso, Beatrice leads Dante through the spheres of heaven. Early on, believing that she has shown him more than he can comprehend, she tells him “sedere un poco a mensa.” She wants him to sit awhile at her table and digest all that he has seen.
Throughout Across the Table, the Dantes are sustained by Rose’s belief that there is no pain that cannot be eased by a homemade meal, such as those you will find here.
ORECCHIETE CON PROSCIUTTO E PISELLI
When Toni’s fiancé comes to Sunday dinner with the family to discuss the wedding, Rose puts care, as always, into the meal. As she says, “It was important to me that Bobby see that Italian food was more than smothering everything in tomato sauce and melted mozzarella.”
1 lb. orecchiette pasta
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 medium onion, chopped into small dice
1 cup baby peas
1 cup diced cooked ham
2 cups heavy cream
Grated Parmigiano
Salt and pepper
Prepare orecchiette as directed.
Sauté the onion in butter over medium heat until soft.
Add peas and ham, stirring to mix with onions.
Add heavy cream, blending with ham and vegetables until gently bubbling. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
Drain pasta. Place in serving bowl and add sauce, stirring to mix. Serve with grated Parmigiano.
You’ll find more recipes from Dancing On Sunday Afternoons and Across the Table in my free cookbook, Come Sit at My Table .
RECIPES FROM THE BOAT HOUSE CAFÉ
When Tobias first comes to the Boat House Café, Mae makes him a chicken sandwich; later in the summer, she concocts a wine-simmered stew for him from the rabbit he has trapped and shared with her. But it is also Mae’s pies that establish her reputation on the island. As the fishermen say, “She’s not got much to say, but bakes a damn good pie.”
RABBIT STEW
1 rabbit, about 3 pounds, cut into serving pieces
1/3 cup olive oil
1 small onion, minced
1 small stalk celery, minced
4 garlic cloves, minced
2 cups chopped tomatoes
1 cup red wine
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme
2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano
2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary
2 small bay leaves
Heat oil in a Dutch oven or other large heavy pot. Brown the rabbit pieces and remove to a platter.
Add onion and celery and sauté until softened.
Add garlic and continue sautéing until onion and garlic are golden.
Return rabbit to pot and add tomatoes and wine, stirring and scraping up any brown bits from the bottom of the pot. Add herbs.
Cover and simmer for about 35 minutes, until rabbit is cooked through.
Serve with noodles.
APPLE PIE
Pie crust
(for top and bottom of 9” pie)
1 ¾ cups flour
1 teaspoon salt
1 ¼ sticks (5 ounces) chilled butter
2 tablespoon chilled shortening (Crisco)
1/3 to ½ cup ice water
Place flour and salt in food processor with regular blade and blend for 1 second. Rapidly cut butter and shortening into ½ -inch bits and drop into machine. Turn on for 3 seconds. Stop. Add all but 2 tablespoons of the ½ cup ice water and turn on the machine. In 2 to 3 seconds the dough should begin to mass on the blade and the pastry is done.
Turn it out onto a work surface and with the heel of your hand, rapidly and roughly smear it out in front of you to make a final blending of butter into the dough.
Form into two disks, flour lightly, wrap in plastic and a plastic bag, and chill for at least 2 hours before using.
Apple Filling
5 to 6 cups apples (peeled, cored, and cut into very thin slices)
1 cup brown sugar
¼ teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons cornstarch
½ teaspoon cinnamon
¼ teaspoon nutmeg
2 tablespoons butter
Place apples in a large mixing bowl.
In a small bowl, blend sugar, salt, cornstarch, and spices until well mixed.
Gently stir sugar-spice mix into apples, coating them well.
Constructing the Pie
Roll each disk of dough into a circle about 1/8 inch thick.
Press one circle in the pie pan and brush the bottom with egg white.
Fill the pie crust with the apples.
Cut the butter into small bits and place around the apples.
Cover the apples with the remaining circle of dough. Pinch together the top and bottom crusts and press together with a fork.
Cut vent holes in the crust with the point of a sharp knife. If you wish, decorate the center of the crust with scraps of dough.
Brush the crust with a beaten egg yolk.
Bake the pie for 10 minutes at 450 º. Reduce the heat to 350 º and bake for an additional 45 minutes.
JORDAN MARSH BLUEBERRY MUFFINS
Mae’s first job in Boston was at the Jordan Marsh bakery, where “personal attention was offered along with the blueberry muffins.”
½ cup butter
1 cup sugar
2 eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla
2 cups flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
½ cup milk
2 ½ cups blueberries
2 tablespoons sugar, for topping
Cream butter and sugar.
Add eggs and vanilla. Beat well.
Sift dry ingredients together, then add alternately with the milk.
Fold in the berries.
Grease top of tins well.
Pile batter high in cups.
Bake at 375 degrees for 30 minutes. Cool in pans before removing.
RECIPES FROM THE UNEVEN ROAD
At the summer gathering of the Chappaquiddick Wampanoag, food was an important part of the celebration. Josiah, on his way to find his grandmother’s umbrella, can’t help noticing the heavily laden trestle tables.
“. . . he saw loaves of corn and cranberry bread; platters of chicken and burgers and corn on the cob; pots of sobaheg, the turkey stew Naomi had made the day before, simmering it for hours till the meat fell off the bones. His mother’s pies, blueberry, apple and strawberry rhubarb, were at the far end, already sliced and waiting.”
NAOMI’S SOBAHEG (Adapted from the Plimoth Plantation recipe)
1/2 pound dry beans (white, red, brown or spotted kidney-shaped beans)
1/2 pound white hominy corn or yellow samp or coarse grits
1 pound turkey meat (legs or breast, with bone and skin)
3 quarts cold water
1/4 pound green beans, trimmed and cut into 1 inch-lengths
1/2 pound winter squash, trimmed and cubed
1/2 cup raw sunflower seed meats, pounded to a course flour (or pounded walnuts)
I medium onion, chopped
2-3 cloves of garlic, chopped
Clam juice or salt to taste (optional)
Combine dried beans, corn, turkey, seasonings and water in a large pot. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, turn down to a very low simmer, and cook for about 2 1/2 hours. Stir occasionally to be certain bottom is not sticking.
When dried beans are tender, but not mushy, break up turkey meat, removing skin and bones. Add green beans and squash, and simmer very gently until they are tender.
Add sunflower or nut flour, stirring until thoroughly blended.
CORN BREAD (from Time Changes by Jonnie Anderson and Vivian Jones)
¼ cup flour
¾ cup plain cornmeal
2 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
1 ½ tablespoons solid shortening
1 egg
¾ cup milk
1 ½ tablespoons solid shortening for pan
Put the shortening in the pan and place in hot oven while you mix the batter.
Mix dry ingredients, cut in 1 ½ tablespoon shortening, add egg and milk.
Mix lightly. Pour batter into hot pan and bake 15-20 minutes at 450º.
Serves four.
RECIPE FROM ISLAND LEGACY
Elizabeth invites Grace Monroe for lunch at Innisfree with the hope of gaining her support for Elizabeth’s idea of creating a documentary of the Chappaquiddick Wampanoag tribe. With her usual intensity, she throws herself into preparing the meal.
“The morning of her meeting with Grace, Elizabeth was in the kitchen chopping parsley and garlic, slicing a pound of apples, peeling asparagus stalks and pounding boneless chicken breasts to paper-thin slices. The boys had been happy to go clamming in the pond when told that the results of their labors would be linguine alle vongole as the pasta course for lunch. . . .Carmella had taught her to cook with her nose and her tongue and her hands, and she had embraced those skills with the same enthusiasm she felt for her filmmaking.”
LINGUINE WITH WHITE CLAM SAUCE
¼ cup olive oil
4 large cloves garlic, chopped
1 quart fresh shucked clams or 2 cans (6.5 oz) chopped clams
2 jars (8 oz.) clam juice
3 tablespoons chopped parsley
1 lb. linguine
Red pepper flakes
Salt and pepper to taste
Cook the linguine al dente according to package directions.
Heat the olive oil over medium heat in a large skillet, add garlic and sauté until soft but not browned.
Add clams and clam juice and simmer for about five minutes.
Drain linguine, reserving about one cup of pasta water.
Add linguine to clam sauce, toss with parsley, red pepper flakes, salt and pepper.
If you need additional sauce, add reserved pasta water and mix well.